Gear Review: Petzl Adjama/Luna Harness
Gear Review: Petzl Adjama/Luna Harness
Product Name: Adjama/Luna Harness
Product Brand: Petzl
Best Use: Sport and Trad Climbing
Sizes Available / Specs:
Men's Adjama: S-M (390g), M-L (420g), L-XL (470g), XL-XXL (490g).
Women's Luna: S-M (390g), M-L (420g), L-XL (450g).
Location of Test: Ozone, Broughton, and Portland Rock Gym
Duration: 2 months
Value Rating: 7
Durability Rating: 8
Overall Rating: 10
I picked up the Adjama Harness from Petzl at the beginning of this season and I have been deeply impressed. This harness is chock-full of great features, but what makes it special is how little I notice it's there. It's comfortable enough for long belays spent encouraging new climbers, padded enough to take repeated falls on those tough projects, and is still ergonomic enough to stay out of the way during tricky moves.
The fancily-named EndoFrame construction does an amazing job of distributing pressure across the surface of the harness. Starting on the outside, the belt narrows in the front and back to fit over the hips naturally. Where the harness touches the body there is wicking mesh covering open-cell foam for maximum comfort on hot summer climbs. Inside both belt and let loops the webbing is split into two bands to better distribute your weight in a fall. The result is a harness so comfortable I hardly notice it's there.
Stiff, asymmetrical gear loops on the front are especially great for racking trad pieces or quickdraws. I found these loops especially helpful on those run out routes that demand a couple placements in addition to a full set of QDs. In the back soft gear loops squish down comfortably when I'm carrying a pack or laying down for that crag cat-nap. On both sides single-carabiner loops (designed for racking ice screws) help me keep everything organized while rigging anchors.
The men's Med/Lrg version of the Adjama weighs in at just under 1 pound, keeping it sleek but not too much so. Many harnesses on the market weigh as much as 100 grams less (roughly the weight of that extra quickdraw I always take but never use) and for weight-obsessed sport climbers this might be an issue. However, the extra weight is largely found in Dyneema-reinforced tie-in points which grant the harness additional durability and the economic leg loops that move with me much more fluidly than lighter, flimsier loops. For me, the tradeoff is more than worth it.
The Adjama is also designed to function as an ice-climbing harness. It utilizes fully-detachable leg loops that are easy to slide over heavy boots and single-carabiner attachment points on each hip for racking ice screws using Petzl's CARITOOL (or any other 'biner). Yet the additional features take nothing away for the harness's quality on rock. The Adjama uses open cell foam in its cushioning for more breathability on hot days while many ice-specific harnesses use closed cell foam to prevent water from accumulating.
I am amazed at how comfortable the Adjama is. After my first several belays I was surprised at how little stress and abrasion I felt on my thighs. Even hanging belays were far more comfortable in this harness than any I've owned before. I find racking my gear on this harness incredibly convenient, and its articulated leg loops help keep the harness out of my way on technical routes.
--Review Summary Points--
"The Good" List:
Ergonomic: This harness stays out of the way while climbing and holds on comfortably while belaying or falling.
Practical: the gear loops and adjustability work perfectly for climbing ice, sport, or moderate trad.
Bomb-proof: Dyneema reinforced tie-in points and EndoFrame construction are tough as nails.
"The Not so Good List":
Cost: At $74.99 this one of the more expensive harnesses on the market.
The Harness Curs: Everybody is shaped a little different so it's important to try before you buy.
The Bottom Line: Comfort, features, and durability that are worth every penny.