Gear Review: Alloy Offsets from DMM Climbing
Value Rating: 7
Durability Rating: 6
Overall Rating: 8
Location of Test: Broughton Bluff, Tuolumne Meadows, Rock Creek
Duration of Test: 10+ climbing days
Product Name: Alloy Offsets
Product Brand: DMM
Best Use: Trad climbing
Sizes: Sizes 7-11
All are rated to 12 kN
The Full Review:
How often are you climbing, go to place a piece of protection, and find a perfectly parallel narrowing crack? With the exception of some truly spectacular areas, very few cracks have parallel wells.
Unlike most cracks, most nuts are parallel (lengthwise that is), which means they don't seat as well in most cracks. Though standard nuts (like the DMM Wallnuts that I climb with) usually get the job done, I don't think I truly felt a bomber nut placement until I started climbing with DMM Alloy Offset nuts.
The design behind DMM's offset nuts was invented by Hugh Banner back when HB Wales still existed. When he died and the company shut down in 2005, climbers scrambled to find offset nuts. Using the original HB Wales design, DMM began reproducing them.
As you can see in the photo, offset nuts are larger on one end than they are on another. This means that they seat themselves into flaring crack exceptionally well. I've even found that I can secure a solid placement with an offset nut in a spot I would otherwise be unable to protect.
On a recent trip to the Sierras, my partner gleefully exclaimed on our third or fourth day that the blue #8 offset nut was the "MVP of the trip" (the yellow offset nut and purple Totem cam tied for second). Bottom line is that my offset nuts are the number one piece that I place early and then miss later on in the route--they fit easily into a shocking number of cracks, seat and conform to the rock (the alloy is softer than standard aluminum nuts), and usually feel more secure than other standard nuts.
The Good
Useful in otherwise difficult-to-protect situations, feel very secure
The Bad:
Not as durable as aluminum nuts because they're made of a softer alloy
The Bottom Line:
DMM's Offset Nuts are a total lifesaver and a necessary piece on any trad climber's rack
The Full Review:
How often are you climbing, go to place a piece of protection, and find a perfectly parallel narrowing crack? With the exception of some truly spectacular areas, very few cracks have parallel wells.
Unlike most cracks, most nuts are parallel (lengthwise that is), which means they don't seat as well in most cracks. Though standard nuts (like the DMM Wallnuts that I climb with) usually get the job done, I don't think I truly felt a bomber nut placement until I started climbing with DMM Alloy Offset nuts.
The design behind DMM's offset nuts was invented by Hugh Banner back when HB Wales still existed. When he died and the company shut down in 2005, climbers scrambled to find offset nuts. Using the original HB Wales design, DMM began reproducing them.
As you can see in the photo, offset nuts are larger on one end than they are on another. This means that they seat themselves into flaring crack exceptionally well. I've even found that I can secure a solid placement with an offset nut in a spot I would otherwise be unable to protect.
On a recent trip to the Sierras, my partner gleefully exclaimed on our third or fourth day that the blue #8 offset nut was the "MVP of the trip" (the yellow offset nut and purple Totem cam tied for second). Bottom line is that my offset nuts are the number one piece that I place early and then miss later on in the route--they fit easily into a shocking number of cracks, seat and conform to the rock (the alloy is softer than standard aluminum nuts), and usually feel more secure than other standard nuts.
The Good
Useful in otherwise difficult-to-protect situations, feel very secure
The Bad:
Not as durable as aluminum nuts because they're made of a softer alloy
The Bottom Line:
DMM's Offset Nuts are a total lifesaver and a necessary piece on any trad climber's rack