Location of Test:
Indoors & Outdoors (Smith Rock, French's Dome)
Duration of Test:
Jayne II Women's Climbing Harness
Sport, Trad, Indoor
The Full Review:
The Edelrid Jayne II was my first climbing harness. In truth, I showed up to the shop, looked for an inexpensive option, and just grabbed one off the shelves. At the time, I didn't know what to look for in a harness, but I was lucky enough to have grabbed a great option without even knowing. The Edelrid Jayne II is a highly adjustable harness with Easy-Glide buckles that make adjustments a breeze. It's a fantastic harness for beginners: it is generously padded, reasonably priced, and doesn't require double backing on the buckles.
I used this harness for sport climbing and top-roping heavily over the course of a year, but then I lost 20 lbs. and found I couldn't fit into it anymore: it was too big. I was surprised that the small size couldn't get small enough. Reluctantly, I moved on and bought a new harness, keeping the Edelrid Jayne II as a backup for friends who didn't have their own. Fast forward and I'm climbing with someone wearing the Jayne II. I tell her " I used to wear that harness but as soon as I lost weight it just didn't fit me anymore". She responded by saying "The same thing happened to me, and then I realized you could shift the padding to make the harness smaller". Mind blown.
Now we get to the coolest part about the Edelrid Jayne II: you can slide the hip belt padding along the hip belt webbing, making it an ultra-adjustable harness. This allows it to be highly adjustable and fit many waist sizes, while still having the foam of the hip belt in an optimal place. Needless to say, I was baffled upon discovering this and went back to wearing the Edelrid Jayne II.
Another thing I really like about the Jayne is the gear loops. They are well structured and positioned cleverly across the hip belt for optimal access when clipping and cleaning. They are strong and large enough for trad if that suits your fancy. The Jayne also has adjustable leg loops, making it easy to take the harness on and off while wearing shoes and ultimately, just more comfortable.
In addition, the part of the leg loop that the belay loop goes through (the high abrasion point) is well protected and kept together with a small bit of adjustable webbing underneath, rather than elastic. This is ultimately more durable and great for falling sideways (especially if you're a highliner and you're always falling sideways). A nice plus with this harness is it also comes with spots for putting ice clips.
The Jayne is highly adjustable, both in the hip belt and leg loops, offering for maximum comfort and positioning of the gear loops on the hip. It also comes in electrically bright colors, which though not everyone's favorite, makes it easier to detect wear and tear on the harness and make sure you're only using it as long as you should be. It comes with large, well positioned and durable gear loops as well as good protection in the tie-in point.
The only problem I've had with this harness was that it felt bulky to me. This may be because my comparison was a very slim harness, but the straps of the Edelrid Jayne II felt too wide and too padded for my liking. I've had many friends with this harness who did not have that experience. It does, however, make it a bigger, bulkier harness and perhaps not the best choice if your traveling and trying to reduce gear space and weight.
Another slight downside to the Jayne II is the fact that it has only one adjustable buckle on the hip belt. I prefer two, but they mostly accommodate for this with the addition of the sliding hip belt padding.
The Bottom Line:
The Jayne II is economical, well constructed and highly adjustable. Though its padding felt too bulky to me, it has been the cause of comfort for others. The Edelrid Jayne II comes with an adjustable hip belt and leg loops, downturned gear loops and durable, padded construction. It is an all-around harness, allowing you to enjoy whippers at the crag or top roping in the gym.