Gear Review: Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Climbing Rope
Value Rating: 8
Durability Rating: 9
Overall Rating: 9
Location of Test: Everywhere--from Smith Rock, to Broughton Bluff, to Tuolumne Meadows, to Spain, Portugal, and many other places.
Duration of Test: 1.5 years
Product Name: Performance 9.2mm
Product Brand: Edelweiss
Best Use: Alpine Rock climbing
Sizes:
60m, 70m, 80m, 90m
Everydry, SuperEverdry
The Full Review:
Climbing ropes have come a long way since the days when Royal Robbins and Warren Harding sent massive routes in the Valley with racks of pitons and braided fiber ropes. Nothing is proof of this more than the small-diameter ropes we climb on today.
The Edelweiss Performance 9.2 is an excellent example of this. This is the rope that does it all. It’s UIAA rated as a single, twin, and half rope, is dry treated, and features Edelweiss proprietary Unicore technology.
Climbing ropes have different strength and stretch ratings based on their intended use. Generally speaking, twin ropes, which are meant to be clipped together, and half ropes, which are meant to be clipped into alternating protection, are both thinner than single ropes, with twin ropes being the thinnest. Single ropes are meant to be climbed on using only one rope and are ideal for general rock climbing. Ropes should be used only in the way that they are built and marked to be used.
The fact that the Performance 9.2 is rated as a single, half, and twin is both impressive and quite useful, making the rope as useful at Smith Rock as it is on alpine snow and ice routes.
The version of the Performance that I have features Edelweiss’ Everdry treatment, though they make a model that features their SuperEverydry treatment as well. The Everydry treatment is a treatment of just the sheath strands, while the SuperEverdry treatment is applied to both the core and sheath strands. I’ve found the EverDry treatment to do its job decently well in the snow and quite well in the rain. It’s important to note that dry treated ropes are not just for ice and alpine climbers. Ropes can lose up to 70% of their dynamic strength when wet, and I would give them a strong consideration if buying a rope to climb in wet climates (such as Oregon!).
The last important feature of this rope is Unicore. Unicore is the technology that many Edelweiss and Beal ropes now feature. The companies were able to bond the core strands of the rope to the sheath strands, greatly reducing the likelihood of the rope breaking when in contact with sharp objects. This feature does not make the rope any stronger under falls, however, it greatly reduces the chances it will break when it comes in contact with a sharp edge (if you don’t believe me, check out this video).
Ultimately, this rope is a joy to handle and a great all-around rope. At 52g/m, it’s light, nimble in hand, smooth and durable. After a year and a half of abuse, it shows only minor sheath wear and shoes few other signs of wear.
The Full Review:
Climbing ropes have come a long way since the days when Royal Robbins and Warren Harding sent massive routes in the Valley with racks of pitons and braided fiber ropes. Nothing is proof of this more than the small-diameter ropes we climb on today.
The Edelweiss Performance 9.2 is an excellent example of this. This is the rope that does it all. It’s UIAA rated as a single, twin, and half rope, is dry treated, and features Edelweiss proprietary Unicore technology.
Climbing ropes have different strength and stretch ratings based on their intended use. Generally speaking, twin ropes, which are meant to be clipped together, and half ropes, which are meant to be clipped into alternating protection, are both thinner than single ropes, with twin ropes being the thinnest. Single ropes are meant to be climbed on using only one rope and are ideal for general rock climbing. Ropes should be used only in the way that they are built and marked to be used.
The fact that the Performance 9.2 is rated as a single, half, and twin is both impressive and quite useful, making the rope as useful at Smith Rock as it is on alpine snow and ice routes.
The version of the Performance that I have features Edelweiss’ Everdry treatment, though they make a model that features their SuperEverydry treatment as well. The Everydry treatment is a treatment of just the sheath strands, while the SuperEverdry treatment is applied to both the core and sheath strands. I’ve found the EverDry treatment to do its job decently well in the snow and quite well in the rain. It’s important to note that dry treated ropes are not just for ice and alpine climbers. Ropes can lose up to 70% of their dynamic strength when wet, and I would give them a strong consideration if buying a rope to climb in wet climates (such as Oregon!).
The last important feature of this rope is Unicore. Unicore is the technology that many Edelweiss and Beal ropes now feature. The companies were able to bond the core strands of the rope to the sheath strands, greatly reducing the likelihood of the rope breaking when in contact with sharp objects. This feature does not make the rope any stronger under falls, however, it greatly reduces the chances it will break when it comes in contact with a sharp edge (if you don’t believe me, check out this video).
Ultimately, this rope is a joy to handle and a great all-around rope. At 52g/m, it’s light, nimble in hand, smooth and durable. After a year and a half of abuse, it shows only minor sheath wear and shoes few other signs of wear.