Gear Review: Petzl Reverso 4 Multi-Purpose Belay Device
Value Rating: 8
Durability Rating: 7
Overall Rating: 8
Location of Test: Patagonia
Duration of Test: 4 months
Product Name: Reverso 4
Product Brand: Petzl
Best Use: Alpine Climbing
Weight: 2.2 oz
Color options: Grey, Purple, Green
The Full Review:
I grabbed a Petzl Reverso 4 from Next Adventure right before a 4.5-month climbing trip in Patagonia. I needed a belay device that offered a smooth lower/rappel, could be set up in guide mode and was lightweight.
As I started to use the Reverso, the first thing that struck me was just how light it is. At 2.2 oz, it weighs a full ounce less than its fiercest competitor, the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Though a softer aluminum wears faster (in fact I noticed some groove marks almost immediately), I was satisfied with the tradeoff given the weight savings. Lightweight vs durability is a constant topic of discussion in climbing gear—almost nothing lightweight lasts as long as its heavier counterpart in the world of climbing gear.
I am super happy with how the Petzl Reverso 4 belays. I found the action to be smooth, lowers were without bumps, and it was easy to feed slack on any rope thinner than about 10mm. Rappelling is a dream on this device—super smooth, and the teeth add a nice bit of friction without overdoing it.
One small feature that led me to choose the Reverso over the ATC Guide is the orientation of the guide mode loop. The loop is oriented horizontally in relation to the device (perpendicular to the tubes), meaning that when it’s clipped into an anchor, the tubes are naturally oriented in the direction of pull. This is not the cause on the Guide, which has a loop oriented vertically.
I have been extremely satisfied with this device and look forward to using it in the future. It has become my go-to device for rappelling and multi-pitch belaying (I prefer the Petzl GriGri for single pitch).
The Good
Lightweight
Smooth belay and rappel
Great orientation in guide mode
The Bad:
Not as durable as competitors
The Bottom Line:
A great lightweight belay device for multi-pitch use
The Full Review:
I grabbed a Petzl Reverso 4 from Next Adventure right before a 4.5-month climbing trip in Patagonia. I needed a belay device that offered a smooth lower/rappel, could be set up in guide mode and was lightweight.
As I started to use the Reverso, the first thing that struck me was just how light it is. At 2.2 oz, it weighs a full ounce less than its fiercest competitor, the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Though a softer aluminum wears faster (in fact I noticed some groove marks almost immediately), I was satisfied with the tradeoff given the weight savings. Lightweight vs durability is a constant topic of discussion in climbing gear—almost nothing lightweight lasts as long as its heavier counterpart in the world of climbing gear.
I am super happy with how the Petzl Reverso 4 belays. I found the action to be smooth, lowers were without bumps, and it was easy to feed slack on any rope thinner than about 10mm. Rappelling is a dream on this device—super smooth, and the teeth add a nice bit of friction without overdoing it.
One small feature that led me to choose the Reverso over the ATC Guide is the orientation of the guide mode loop. The loop is oriented horizontally in relation to the device (perpendicular to the tubes), meaning that when it’s clipped into an anchor, the tubes are naturally oriented in the direction of pull. This is not the cause on the Guide, which has a loop oriented vertically.
I have been extremely satisfied with this device and look forward to using it in the future. It has become my go-to device for rappelling and multi-pitch belaying (I prefer the Petzl GriGri for single pitch).
The Good
Lightweight
Smooth belay and rappel
Great orientation in guide mode
The Bad:
Not as durable as competitors
The Bottom Line:
A great lightweight belay device for multi-pitch use