How to Pick Climbing Shoes: Fit, Style & Performance Tips

The wall of climbing shoes at Next Adventure can be an overwhelming sight for a new climber. Some are all bent, others are covered in rubber, some look like a Chuck Taylor high top, and others look like slippers. Finding the right one for you can seem like a bit of a chore, but with the right help and armed with the right knowledge, it’s really not so bad.

First, the most important thing is fit. Say it with me now: “The most important thing is fit.” Every brand and every model is going to fit differently, and you should expect to try on a few pairs of shoes before you find the right ones. The biggest attributes to pay attention to in shoes are the closure mechanism, the materials used, and the aggressiveness of the shoe.

Shoes will use one of three mechanisms to dial the fit: laces, Velcro, or elastic. Lace shoes talk the longest to put on and off and are the most adjustable, and thus tend to be popular with sport and trad climbers. Velcro shoes are faster but less adjustable, and boulderers tend to drift in this direction.

Slippers are not super popular, although there are some great models like the 5.10 Moccasym, which are known as a great comfortable multi-pitch shoe. You should choose whatever suits your fancy.

Shoes will typically be made out of either a leather or synthetic leather upper with rubber on the sole and toe, some will be lined, and some will be unlined. Unlined leather will stretch the most. An unlined leather slipper like a La Sportiva Cobra Eco or a 5.10 Moccasym must be downsized so it doesn’t become sloppy once it’s broken in.

Unlined leather shoes can be the most comfortable once broken in, but the break-in period can take longer and thus they aren’t as popular with beginners because they’re less comfortable out of the box. Synthetic materials tend not to stretch as much, and thus lined synthetic shoes will stretch the least.

Though shoes that don’t stretch won’t ultimately fit as well because they don’t mold to the foot as much, they’re more comfortable out of the box because there’s no need to downsize as much.

Finally, we come to the aggressiveness of the shoe. Some shoes, like a Scarpa Instinct or a Tenaya Mundaka, are very bent and downturned. When the pressure placed on the toes stretches against the rubber tension band wrapping around the back of the heel, the force is increased and the “power” in the toes is increased.

Downturned shoes are great for overhung routes where precise and highly powerful footwork is necessary. These shoes are far less comfortable and are unnecessary for beginner climbers. Flatter shoes still aid precise footwork but are far more comfortable and are thus preferred for beginner climbers.

Ultimately, fit is the important thing in climbing shoes. ALWAYS try them on before buying. Downsize so they’re tight but not painful and be aware of how much they will stretch (ask someone in the Climbing Dept. if you aren’t sure!). You want to make sure shoes fit snugly, that there aren’t any dead spots or looseness, that the heel cup fits snugly, and the toes are tight but not overly scrunched.

One of the first things you'll notice when looking at a pair of climbing shoes is the variety of shapes available. Climbing shoes are designed with different levels of curvature to serve different types of climbing. Generally, these fall into three main categories: flat, moderate, and aggressively downturned.

Flat climbing shoes are the most comfortable and are usually recommended for beginners or climbers who spend long hours on the wall. Their neutral shape allows the foot to rest in a more natural position, making them ideal for all-day wear, trad climbing, and crack climbing.

Since flat shoes aren’t forcing your toes into a cramped position, they’re also a great choice for multi-pitch climbing, where comfort over long periods is key. While they may not provide the same power as their more aggressively downturned counterparts, they allow for precise foot placement and a good feel during rock climbing.

For climbers ready to take on a mix of terrains, moderate shoes offer a balance between comfort and performance. These shoes have a slight downturn, which provides better power transfer to the toes while still being comfortable enough for extended wear.

Moderate shoes are especially useful for sport climbing and trad climbing since they offer more precision than a flat shoe while still maintaining a level of comfort. If you’re venturing into steeper routes or climbing outside more frequently, this style of shoe is a solid choice.

If you're tackling overhung routes, bouldering problems, or steep sport climbs, an aggressively downturned shoe is what you need. The extreme curve of these shoes forces your big toe into a powerful position, increasing strength and precision on small footholds.

This shape is not ideal for beginners, as aggressively downturned shoes can be uncomfortable, especially when worn for long periods. However, for advanced climbers needing an extra edge on challenging terrain, these shoes provide the footwork power necessary to excel.

The material of your climbing shoes will affect how they fit, stretch, and feel over time.

Lined Leather vs. Unlined Leather

Leather climbing shoes are a favorite for many climbers because they stretch and conform to the shape of the foot. However, it’s important to understand the difference between lined leather and unlined leather shoes.

• Unlined leather shoes stretch up to a full size, which means you need to downsize when purchasing. If you buy them too comfortably, they may become loose and sloppy after breaking in.

• Lined leather shoes won’t stretch as much, usually about half a size, making them more predictable in fit.

If you’re picking a leather shoe, consider how much stretch you’re comfortable with and how tight you want them to be out of the box.

Synthetic Shoes: Consistency in Fit

Synthetic shoes, on the other hand, don’t stretch as much as leather shoes, which makes them more reliable for maintaining their original fit. Many climbers prefer synthetic shoes for this reason—they don’t have to guess how much the shoe will stretch over time.

However, because synthetic materials don’t mold to the foot as well as leather, they might not feel as personalized after long-term use. But if you’re looking for a consistent fit with minimal break-in time, synthetic shoes could be the way to go.

If crack climbing is on your agenda, you’ll want a shoe that provides protection, comfort, and precision. Crack climbing involves jamming your feet into cracks, which means you need a shoe that can handle the pressure without causing pain.

• Flatter shoes are best for crack climbing since they allow your foot to sit comfortably inside cracks without unnecessary pressure on the toe.

• High-top designs are also popular for crack climbing because they protect your ankles from scraping against rough rock surfaces.

• Rubber coverage on the toe and sides can help improve grip when wedging your foot inside a crack.

A lace-up closure system is ideal for crack climbing because it allows for precise adjustments, ensuring a snug fit without unnecessary discomfort.

Getting the right fit is the most important part of choosing a pair of climbing shoes. Here are some tips to help you size your shoes properly:

1. Try on multiple sizes. Every brand and model fits differently, so don’t assume your street shoe size will match your climbing shoe size.

2. Think about stretch. Remember that unlined leather shoes will stretch more than synthetic or lined leather shoes.

3. Check for dead space. Your toes should be snug but not painfully curled. Too much space means less precision, while too little space can lead to discomfort and poor circulation.

4. Heel fit matters. The heel should feel secure without slipping, even when you flex your foot.

5. Consider your climbing style. A tight, aggressive fit works for steep, overhung climbs, while a slightly looser, flatter fit is best for trad climbing and all-day wear.

When in doubt, ask a Next Adventure Climbing Department expert to help you find the right size.

The way your climbing shoes fasten can make a difference in their convenience and performance.

• Laces: Best for precise adjustments and all-day comfort. Great for sport climbers and crack climbers who need a secure fit.

• Velcro: Quick and easy to put on and take off. A favorite among boulderers who frequently remove their shoes between climbs.

• Slip-ons: Offer the most sensitivity and comfort once broken in. Great for training and multi-pitch climbing but may lack the security of laces or Velcro.

Each style has its advantages, so choose based on how often you’ll be putting your shoes on and taking them off.

Now that you understand the basics, let’s break it down by climbing type:

• Bouldering: Go for aggressively downturned shoes with Velcro for easy on/off convenience. A soft, sticky rubber sole will help on overhangs.

• Sport Climbing: Choose a moderate shoe with a slight downturn shape for precision on vertical routes.

• Trad & Crack Climbing: A flat shoe with high ankle coverage is ideal for comfort and protection.

• Indoor Gym Climbing: A durable, all-around shoe with a snug fit works best for gym sessions.

If you’re not sure what to get, the team at Next Adventure is always ready to help you find the perfect fit.

• Try before you buy. Always test out different models and sizes to find the best fit for your foot shape and climbing style.

• Don’t buy shoes that are too painful. A snug fit is necessary, but extreme discomfort can lead to foot injuries.

• Ask for advice. If you’re unsure about fit, material, or break-in time, Next Adventure’s experts can guide you toward the best choice.

With the right pair of climbing shoes, you’ll feel more confident, comfortable, and ready to tackle any route—whether you’re just starting out or pushing your limits on advanced climbs.

Stop by the Next Adventure Climbing Department in Portland or check out our selection online to find your perfect climbing shoe today