How to Pick Climbing Shoes: Fit, Style & Performance Tips
Quick answer: Fit comes first. Pick a shoe snug enough that your toes are flat-to-slightly-curled with no dead space and a secure heel, but never painful. Beginners and trad climbers do best in flat, comfortable shoes; sport climbers in moderate shoes; boulderers and steep climbers in downturned Velcro shoes. Unlined leather stretches up to a full size, so downsize; synthetics barely stretch. Always try several pairs on.
The wall of climbing shoes at Next Adventure can be an overwhelming sight for a new climber. Some are bent like bananas, some are wrapped in rubber, some look like a Chuck Taylor high top, and others look like slippers. With a little knowledge (and a willingness to try on a few pairs), finding the right one is not so bad.
The Most Important Thing Is Fit
Say it with us: the most important thing is fit. Every brand and model fits differently, so expect to try on several pairs before you find yours. Beyond fit, pay attention to three attributes: the closure system, the materials, and how aggressive (downturned) the shoe is.
Climbing Shoe Shapes: Flat, Moderate, or Downturned
Flat shoes: comfortable all-arounders
Flat shoes keep your foot in a natural position. They are the most comfortable choice for beginners, long gym sessions, multi-pitch days, trad, and crack climbing. They give up some power on steep terrain but still allow precise foot placement and good feel on the rock.
Moderate shoes: versatility for most climbers
A slight downturn puts more power into your toes while staying comfortable enough for extended wear. Moderate shoes are a solid pick for sport climbing, steeper routes, and climbers who are starting to head outside more often.
Aggressively downturned shoes: power and precision
Shoes like the Scarpa Instinct or Tenaya Mundaka are strongly bent. Pressure on the toes works against the rubber tension band around the heel, concentrating power on tiny footholds. They shine on overhangs, boulder problems, and steep sport routes, but they are far less comfortable and unnecessary for beginners.
Closure Systems: Laces, Velcro, or Slippers
- Laces: The most adjustable and secure, but slowest on and off. Popular with sport, trad, and crack climbers.
- Velcro: Fast on and off, slightly less adjustable. A favorite with boulderers who pull their shoes off between problems.
- Slippers (elastic): Very sensitive and comfortable once broken in. Models like the Five Ten Moccasym are known as comfortable multi-pitch and training shoes, but they offer less security than laces or Velcro.
Materials: Unlined Leather, Lined Leather, or Synthetic
- Unlined leather stretches the most, up to about a full size. Shoes like the La Sportiva Cobra Eco or Five Ten Moccasym must be downsized so they don't get sloppy once broken in. They can be the most comfortable shoes long-term, but the break-in takes longer.
- Lined leather stretches less, usually around half a size, so the fit is more predictable.
- Synthetic uppers stretch the least. They feel better out of the box because you don't need to downsize as much, but they won't mold to your foot quite as personally over time.
How to Size Climbing Shoes
- Try multiple sizes. Your street shoe size is only a starting point.
- Account for stretch. Downsize more for unlined leather, less for synthetic or lined leather.
- Check for dead space. Toes should be snug but not painfully crunched. Extra space costs precision; too little hurts circulation.
- Lock the heel. The heel cup should stay put when you flex your foot.
- Match your style. A tighter, aggressive fit works for steep climbing; a slightly roomier, flatter fit is better for trad and all-day wear.
Not sure how much a shoe will stretch? Ask our climbing department at the Grand Avenue store.
Crack Climbing Shoes
Jamming feet into cracks calls for protection and comfort. Look for a flatter shoe so your foot sits comfortably in the crack, a high-top design to protect your ankles from rough rock, and good rubber coverage on the toe and sides. Laces let you dial a snug fit without hot spots.
Which Shoe for Which Climbing
- Bouldering: Downturned, Velcro, soft sticky rubber.
- Sport climbing: Moderate downturn for precision on vertical and slightly steep routes.
- Trad and crack: Flat, laced, ideally high-top.
- Indoor gym: A durable, comfortable all-around shoe with a snug fit.
Shop Climbing Shoes and Gear
Our full wall of climbing shoes is at the Grand Avenue store in Portland's Central Eastside, where you can try on as many pairs as you need. A few climbing items are also available online:
- Butora Gomi (Wide Fit) Comfortable all-around shoe for wider feet
- Kavu Rope Bag Keeps your rope clean at the crag
- Kavu Mini Rope Bag Compact carry for gym days
Climbing Shoe FAQ
How tight should climbing shoes be?
Snug with no dead space, toes flat or slightly curled, and a heel that doesn't slip. They should never be so painful that you can't focus on climbing. Beginners should err toward comfort.
Should I size down for climbing shoes?
Usually, yes, but how much depends on the material. Unlined leather can stretch up to a full size, lined leather about half a size, and synthetic very little, so downsize the most for unlined leather.
Are downturned climbing shoes good for beginners?
Generally not. Aggressively downturned shoes are built for steep, overhanging terrain and are uncomfortable for long sessions. A flat or moderate shoe will help a new climber learn footwork more comfortably.
Velcro or lace-up climbing shoes?
Velcro is quicker on and off, which boulderers love. Laces adjust more precisely and are preferred for long routes, trad, and crack climbing.
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