How to Select a Belay Device for Climbing
Quick answer: Most climbers start with a tube-style device like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Verso because it's versatile, light, and works for belaying and rappelling. Sport climbers and gym regulars often add an assisted braking device like the Petzl GriGri for extra security on long belay sessions. Guide-mode tube devices suit multipitch. Figure-8s are best kept for rappelling. Always check that the device matches your rope diameter.
When it comes to climbing, safety is the number one priority, and a belay device is arguably the most crucial tool in your kit. It controls the rope while you belay, catching falls and lowering your climber, and it lets you rappel under control. Here's how to choose the right one for the climbing you do.
How Belay Devices Work
A belay device creates friction on the rope so the belayer can hold a fall and lower a climber with a manageable amount of force from the brake hand. Different designs create and manage that friction in different ways, which is what sets the types apart.
Types of Belay Devices
Tube-Style Devices
The most common belay devices, great for beginners and experienced climbers alike. Rope is fed through a tube or slot and bends around a locking carabiner to create friction. They're light, simple, affordable, and can rappel on two strands. Examples include the Black Diamond ATC and Petzl Verso. Guide-style versions, like the ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso, add a mode for belaying a follower directly off the anchor on multipitch routes.
Assisted Braking Devices
Assisted braking devices, such as the Petzl GriGri, add a mechanism that helps lock the rope when it's loaded suddenly, as in a fall. They add a margin of safety, reduce fatigue on long belay sessions or when working routes, and help when belaying a heavier partner. They are not hands-free: always keep your brake hand on the rope.
Figure-8 Devices
Figure-8s have a distinctive shape, offer a large friction surface, and handle rope smoothly. They're primarily used for rappelling and descending, and that's how we recommend using them.
What to Consider When Buying a Belay Device
- Type of climbing: tube-style devices are the most versatile. Assisted braking devices are popular for sport and gym climbing. Guide-mode devices are ideal for multipitch.
- Rope compatibility: every device is rated for a range of rope diameters. Check that yours falls within it for safe, smooth performance, especially with skinny modern ropes.
- Weight and portability: for multipitch or long approaches, a compact tube device or a lighter assisted braking device saves weight.
- Durability and quality: choose a device from a reputable climbing manufacturer, inspect it for wear grooves, and retire it when it's worn.
- Training: learn to use any new device from a qualified instructor or experienced climber before relying on it.
Get Help Choosing
Belay devices, carabiners, harnesses, and ropes are available in-store at our Grand Avenue store in Portland's Central Eastside, where our climbing staff can help you compare devices in hand. Online, check out these climbing essentials:
- Butora Gomi Wide Fit Comfortable climbing shoe
- Kavu Rope Bag Keep your rope clean
- Kavu Mini Rope Bag Compact rope carry
- Surviveware Small First Aid Kit For the crag pack
Belay Device FAQ
What is the best belay device for beginners?
A tube-style device like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Verso is a great first choice. It's simple, affordable, works for belaying and rappelling, and teaches solid brake-hand fundamentals.
Is a GriGri safer than an ATC?
An assisted braking device like the GriGri adds a margin of safety by helping lock the rope in a fall, but it is not foolproof. Proper technique and keeping your brake hand on the rope are essential with any device.
Can you belay with a figure-8?
Figure-8 devices are designed mainly for rappelling. For belaying, we recommend a tube-style or assisted braking device.
What belay device should I use for multipitch climbing?
A guide-style tube device such as the ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso is ideal because it can belay a leader, belay a follower directly off the anchor, and rappel on two strands.