Six Locations for Some of Oregon's Best Rock Climbing

Smith Rock put Oregon on the map for rock climbing. There are small crags all over the state but none tout as many routes as Smith rock does. Smith rock was a humble crag that began with a few routes and fewer visitors until a young motivated Alan Watts began bolting the blank faces in-between the cracks. The park quickly exploded into America’s first major sport climbing crag. With it bringing people from all over the world to try the new test pieces that popped up there, including America’s first 5.14 To Bolt or Not to Be. Today the crag has well over 2500 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14d. There really is something for everyone here, many people skip over the fantastic trad climbing on the basalt columns in the lower gorge. 

When traveling here you can expect a bit more of “old school” grading where routes can feel stiff for the grade and the bolt spacing a bit run out. Along with spaced bolts, relatively high first bolts are common so stick clips are highly recommended. There are few routes that are actually unsafe, but everything will keep you on your toes. Quite literally as the vertical faces lend to really technical footwork and small holds. Having climbed at Smith Rock for years, I think Smith shines in routes of the mid 5.12 to mid 5.13 range, not to say the place isn’t amazing for people of all levels, but those were the routes I found to have the most fun movement and position. That being said Smith Rock is one of the most inspiring and condensed sport climbing crags in the country. 

Unless you are planning on staying at Smith for a while you will probably have enough sport climbing on your hands that you can leave the cams behind. A rack of 14 or so quick draws and a 70m rope will get you up most routes in the park (a 60 will be too short for many pitches and you really only need an 80 if you are going to climb routes on the monkey face). One of the best parts about Smith is the ease of access to many camping spots. There is the bivy which a tent camping area right at the park (you are not allowed to sleep in your cars here), there is skull hollow campground which is 15 min away from the park, then there is lots and lots of BLM land where you can stay for free both by skull hollow and off of lower bridge road. The weather at Smith is great for most of the year except for it can be crushingly hot for a few months in the summer (don’t recommend visiting from July through the end of August).

If trad climbing is your thing, you have to make a stop at Trout creek. Think splitter like Indian Creek, but basalt columns. The crag sits atop a hill looking up a valley all the way up to Mt Hood. The wall gets morning shade and afternoon sun, and is closed for much of the spring due to Raptor nesting. Trout is amazing; you will often find yourself alone at the crag with nothing but the birds and wind to keep you company. The approach can take about an hour up a hill which certainly keeps a lot of people away, but it is worth the effort. There are a few easier climbs here, most of the climbing ranges from 5.10-5.13+. 

It is the best crag in Oregon to climb splitter cracks of all sizes and may be the best place in Oregon to learn how to jam cracks of any size. Similar to Indian Creek the cracks tend to bite back a bit and taping up prior to climbing is recommended if you are planning on climbing there for more than a day or two. Also similar to the Creek, having a trad rack with 4 or more of each size is ideal (nuts not needed) so it can be nice to go with people who also have trad climbing gear to combine and conquer. A 70m rope will allow you to climb extensions on pitches if you so desire. The camping here is easy as well with a campground right at the beginning of the approach, that sits right along the river. You will be a little ways away from anywhere to get food or water so make sure to bring your own. 

Visiting Portland, do you have half a day to go climbing? Look no further than Broughton Bluff! The crag is only 15 min away from the city and has everything from 5.8 to 5.14 open projects. The basalt crag is mostly sport climbing with a few trad routes mixed in. Some of the routes can be easily accessed from the top of the cliff making it an easy place to set up top ropes or rope solos. This is a great place to learn outdoor climbing as well as try harder pitches. The bat wall boasts some slightly steeper routes ranging from 5.10 to 5.13+ with some of the most unique trickery sport climbing you may have ever done. The approach is short and makes for an easy outing from town. Little known fact is that the jungle cliff stays completely dry in a total downpour ( I dragged many people out to the wall with me in the wet winters who were skeptical, but it totally goes). If you are only heading out for a day a rack of 12 quickdraws, a stick clip, and a 70m rope will do. The fall is the best season to climb here, as the winter can be wet and the summer can be quite hot. There is morning shade to be found if you are motivated to get up early enough. This crag is great for the budding sport climber who wants to push themselves who lives in Portland.

The Columbia Gorge is one of the more beautiful places to explore in Oregon.

Viento sits right next to the quaint town of Hood River. Viento is one of the better summer crags to visit as it hosts all day shade as well as wind (as one might guess from the name). This crag can be far too cold to climb in the winter, but can be climbed in the rain due to the steep nature of the wall. Viento is an interesting crag as it is overhung blocky basalt climbing. The climbing is very powerful and 3-D, requiring many odd positions that aren’t found at most climbing areas. The rock can be a bit loose so definitely bring your helmet. There are a few easier climbs here to warm up on, but for the most part all of the routes are 5.12 and up. The 3-D climbing also lends itself to lots of drop knees and knee bars so bring a knee pad! There are several camping spots along the highway which offer an easy place to stay. The closest spot is just Viento campground which is just across the highway from the parking lot and you are only 10 min away from Hood River for supplies and amenities. This place is solely a sport climbing crag so a rack of 12 quick draws and a 70m rope will allow you to get up most of the routes, and as I mentioned before don’t forget the knee pad and helmet!

Although this monolith is on the Washington side of the Columbia river it is only an hour from Portland, and when the south face of this rock is open (it is closed during the spring for Raptor nesting) this is the best rock climbing near Portland. Beacon has both single pitch and multi pitch climbing from 5.7 to 5.13+ with more development happening every year! This crag has an amazing 5.7 called the South East corner that allows you to top out the whole formation and is a wonderful route for people to try their first multi pitch trad climb. This crag is also amazing for setting up top rope solos as you can walk to the top and rap into the south side and climb a multitude of pitches from one set of anchors. This is the only crag near Portland where you can climb incredible pitches 300ft off the deck with the incredible backdrop of the Columbia Gorge behind you. Be warned if you go questing up a route that does not get much traffic expect the cracks to be dirty and the gear a bit tricky to find. You will need all the goodies to climb here. A double rack of cams including some small nuts, a 70m rope is needed to rappel most of the routes, plenty of runners, anchor systems, and other desired multi pitch gear. Although this crag is a little out of the way there is not much for camping nearby, but is most definitely worth the trip.

This is probably one of the smaller crags in Oregon. It is a small monolith of rock sitting in the foothills of Mt Hood. French’s Dome is best in the summer, it has all day shade and it can be a bit cooler up by the Mountain.For being small this crag has a high concentration of sport climbing routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13 with a majority of pitches being in the 5.12 range. The climbing here is a bit steeper than vertical and usually involves large moves between good edges. This crag can be both a fun hang and a great place to try different 5.12 routes. The views of Mt. Hood from this crag are unparalleled, and you can camp off of the dirt road that heads up to the crag. The rock can be a bit loose sometimes so wearing a helmet is recommended. A rack of 12 quick draws and a 60m rope will get you up most of the routes with rope to spare.