Video: How to Choose the Right Climbing Shoe
Quick answer: Fit matters most: try on several pairs and choose shoes that are snug with no dead space, a tight heel cup, and toes that are tight but not painfully scrunched. Then pick a closure (laces for adjustability, Velcro for speed, slippers for comfort), an upper (unlined leather stretches most, lined synthetic least), and a shape. Beginners should start with a flatter, more comfortable shoe.
A wall of climbing shoes can be an overwhelming sight for a new climber. Some are sharply bent, some are covered in rubber, some look like high-top sneakers, and others look like slippers. With the right knowledge and a little help, finding your pair isn't so bad.
Fit is everything
Say it with us: the most important thing is fit. Every brand and model fits differently, so expect to try on a few pairs before you find the right one. Beyond fit, pay attention to three things: the closure, the materials, and how aggressive the shoe is.
Laces vs. Velcro vs. slippers
- Laces: slowest to get on and off but the most adjustable, so they're popular with sport and trad climbers.
- Velcro (hook-and-loop): faster on and off but less adjustable. Boulderers tend to drift this way.
- Slippers (elastic): less common, but some models have a following as comfortable multi-pitch shoes.
Choose whatever suits your climbing and your patience.
Leather vs. synthetic uppers
Uppers are typically leather or synthetic, with rubber on the sole and toe, and they come lined or unlined.
- Unlined leather stretches the most. Unlined leather shoes, especially slippers, need to be downsized so they don't get sloppy once broken in. They can be the most comfortable after break-in, but the break-in takes longer, so they're less popular with beginners.
- Lined synthetic stretches the least. These shoes don't mold to your foot as much, but they're more comfortable out of the box because you don't need to downsize as aggressively.
Flat vs. downturned
Aggressive, downturned shoes are sharply bent. When pressure on the toes pulls against the rubber tension band around the heel, more force is concentrated at the toes. That makes them great on overhanging routes that demand precise, powerful footwork, but they're far less comfortable and unnecessary for beginners. Flatter shoes still support precise footwork and are much more comfortable, which is why we recommend them to new climbers.
How tight should climbing shoes be?
Always try shoes on before buying. Size down so they're tight but not painful, and factor in how much the upper will stretch. Look for a snug fit with no dead spots or looseness, a heel cup that hugs your heel, and toes that are tight but not overly scrunched. If you aren't sure, ask our climbing staff.
Shop climbing gear
Most climbing shoes are sold in-store so you can try them on. Visit the climbing department at our Grand Avenue store in Portland's Central Eastside for a fitting. Available online:
- Butora Gomi Wide Fit Comfortable, wide-fit all-around shoe
- Kavu Rope Bag Carry your rope and gear to the crag
- Kavu Mini Rope Bag Compact gear tote
Climbing shoe FAQ
Should beginners buy downturned climbing shoes?
No. Downturned shoes are built for powerful footwork on overhanging routes and are far less comfortable. A flatter shoe is more comfortable and still supports precise footwork while you learn.
How much should I downsize climbing shoes?
It depends on the material. Unlined leather stretches the most and needs the most downsizing; lined synthetic shoes stretch the least, so size them closer to how they feel in the shop.
Are lace-up or Velcro climbing shoes better?
Lace-ups are the most adjustable and are popular for sport and trad climbing. Velcro shoes are faster to get on and off, which boulderers tend to like. Neither is better overall.
How should climbing shoes fit?
Snug everywhere with no dead spots, a heel cup that doesn't shift, and toes that are tight but not painfully curled. Always try them on before buying.
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