The Rock Climbing Guide to Potrero Chico, Mexico

Potrero Chico is a rock climbing mecca with over 600 sport routes on pristine limestone. Climbers from all over the world travel to this unique destination, just outside of the major city of Monterrey, Mexico to scale the gorgeous rock. Many are attracted to Potrero for the large number of multi pitch routes, which range in difficulty from an average of 5.8 to 5.12. There are single pitch routes in this grade as well. Some are anywhere from 4 pitches to the much respected 23 pitch 5.12 route Time Wave Zero.

I recently took this trip. I had an amazing, unforgettable time and have written this article to help people think about taking the trip. I’m going to explain the equipment, best times to visit, where to stay, where to eat, and getting there. As a member of the Next Adventure family, the many staff at our locations and I have helped outfit adventurers with their unique experiences in mind.

Many people will choose to fly from their nearest airport to Monterrey, Mexico. I myself took a relatively short flight from Portland, OR to Monterrey. Flights can be found at a reasonable price, and of course planning ahead can help you save. Once I arrived at the airport in Monterrey, I took a taxi to my hotel in Hidalgo Nuevo Leon. This is where Potrero is, and there are many hotels, hostels, and camping accommodations to choose from. The taxi ride will only take about 45 minutes and is easy to arrange at the airport. Uber is available here, and I was able to arrange a quick, affordable ride. The place you are staying in may offer a shuttle to and from the airport, and for ease of travel you may choose this option.

I chose to stay for ten days at El Rancho Sendero, in a hostel room. Once I was here, the climbing was a short 10–15-minute daily walk to the main entrance. There are a number of restaurants and small markets that you will find along the way, and I definitely enjoyed my fair share of tacos to and from climbs. 

It’s important to note that whether you rent a house, or stay at one of the hostels/hotels, many have large kitchens stocked with appliances and utensils for cooking your own meals. There are grocery stores and supermarkets in Hidalgo, and walking to them is possible and will take about 30-45 minutes each way. People may offer you a ride to and from, and Hidalgo is considered a safe area to travel within. I made two trips to the grocery shop. The first day I arrived I caught a ride with some climbers that were driving that way, and then a few days later I walked both ways to get my supplies from the farmer’s market (every Tuesday and Friday, closes between 2 or 3pm).

The other option is to drive down to Potrero Chico, and many people do. I saw many parking lots full of vans and cars, and the place I stayed allowed travelers to sleep in their vans and still use all the amenities they provide. You will want to make sure you have the correct permit, and insurance to make this drive as easy as possible. A lot of the people I talked to that drove had been on long road trips, climbing along the way. Certainly, if you are already visiting a place like Hueco Tanks to climb, you can easily pop down to Potrero in your van or car.

When it’s time to fly back home you can ask the place you are staying at to arrange a shuttle, or check the local Potrero climbing Facebook page for local taxi drivers that post often on their offering rides to the airport at any time. I arranged a ride this way, and my driver showed up promptly at 4:30am no problem.

Most of the routes in Potrero Chico are sport climbs, meaning fully bolted (no runouts) including anchors. There are some traditional, or “trad” climbs, but many people will choose to leave the cams and such at home. This will definitely lighten your pack and keep the equipment you’ll need to a minimum.

What you will need:

• A 70-meter dynamic rope. Most routes require this length, and always tie knots at the end of your ropes! My rope is the Sterling IONR 9.4mm Bi Color Xeros Dry
• 15 to 25 quick draws. The CAMP Orbit Wire Express are light and a great value!
• 3 to 5 alpine, or extendable quickdraws.
• 1 pair of neutral climbing shoes (for warm-ups & multi pitches). I swear by the 5.10 Moccasym
• PAS (personal anchor system) for securing yourself to anchors when cleaning on belaying on multi pitch routes.
• A helmet. This is a must here! Rockfall can be frequent, and many multi pitch routes go above popular single pitch routes, so be smart and bring a helmet.
• Climbing harness. My personal favorite is the Black Diamond Solution Guide harness. It’s comfortable and durable for all day climbs.
• Belay device (preferably with assisted braking). Petzl GriGri recommended.
• Prusik, for rappels this is a safety must.
• Chalk bag, with chalk to go in it.
• Anchor building system.
  
  

Optional things you may also bring:

• Belay glasses. I was very glad I brought my Metolius Upshot Belay Glasses
• Moderate to aggressive climbing shoes. I brought two pairs in this category: The Tenaya Inti, and Scarpa Instinct VS.
• Approach shoes for walks to and from climbs, and for the sometimes long walk back to your gear from some multi pitch routes. One day we climbed Estrellita, a 12-pitch route graded 5.10+. The rappel is off the back side of the route, so there is a steep walk down where approach shoes would be a great idea to carry with you.
• Belay gloves. I brought mine and was happy to have them on long rappels or cold mornings.
• Backup rappel device (In case you drop one.)
• Walkie talkies. Many routes are long and hard to hear your partner. I brought mine by Midland, and did use them.
  
  

I personally love multi pitch climbing. I love the endurance it takes, but most importantly the adventurous nature of that type of climbing. I have waited for many years to take a trip to Potrero Chico, and when I was struggling during the cold, wet, gray months in Oregon this year, I decided it was time for me to say “yes” and go.

This trip was a total of 10 days, and I took advantage of every day I was there. I arrived there by myself, and quickly made friends who invited me to climb with them right away. If you are traveling alone, just introduce yourself to people where you are staying or eating, and you will find climbing partners. Halfway into my trip, I had a few friends join me as well. I do speak fluent Spanish, but you will get by just fine if you don’t (having a translator app on your phone can be very helpful). 

I climbed several of the classic multi pitch routes like Estrellita, Pitch Black, and Space Boys (5.10+ range for these). I loved every route and found the climbing to be of excellent value. I had a few single pitch cragging days as well, and explored the Club Mex Wall, Jungle Wall, and Virgin walls to name a few. Personally, my only other experience climbing on limestone was at Tonsai Beach, Thailand. I found the quality of the rock to be absolutely excellent, and very forgiving at times. 

After climbing each day, I would normally pick up a few tacos nearby the park entrance, or walk down to Leo's Tacos Potrero Chico Grill . I did have to work just a little while I was away and found the wi-fi at my hostel to be more than great for that. At nights I would catch up with new friends, and really made some valuable connections over the trip.

All year you will find people traveling to and from Potrero to climb, even when it’s very hot out there are areas that stay shaded. Mid December to March is considered by many to be the most optimal time frame to visit, for reasonable temperatures during the days and nights. My trip was at the beginning of February and the average daily high was around 58 Fahrenheit. To some that may not sound appealing, but once temperatures rise much higher, and the sun hits the wall you're climbing, hands get sweaty and holds get slippery. 

I would recommend packing some layers with you on the trip. I took my Patagonia Nano Puff Air, a puffy if it got colder, and a pair of Wilderness Technology Merino Baselayers. If you live in Oregon, you can just plan to wear what you normally wear and expect to feel a little warmer than you do at home. But do bring swimwear, because some places have pools, and there is the option of visiting the San Joaquin Hot Springs on your rest day if you choose. You’ll just have to arrange a taxi for that trip.

Depending on where you are traveling from, there will be a range in plane ticket prices. I can only speak from my own experience here, but I paid just over $500USD round trip from Portland, OR. I recently got a credit card with miles, so the trip was a lot easier to pay for that way.

How much did I spend? Great question! I traveled with $180USD and exchanged that once I arrived for Mexican Pesos. Please note that the airport in Monterrey when you arrive is the best place to exchange your currency and the office there is open until 11pm. I arrived at 1am, stayed a night nearby Monterrey, and asked my Uber driver if he could stop at a Casa De Cambio which is the term for a place to exchange foreign currency. Some people may not be comfortable with this process, but I assure you it is this way in many countries worldwide. A few expenses I did use my credit card for. This included my hostel bed, 1 Uber ride, and 1 night’s stay in Monterrey at a hotel near the airport. I found groceries to be very affordable, as mentioned I went twice and spent on average $26USD total for many days of home cooked meals. Street tacos were $1USD on average, some places charge a little more (maybe $2USD). After the 10 days I still had 600pesos in my pocket, so my $180USD went a long way!

Potrero Chico Climbing Fees: There is a one-time fee you will pay the first time you get to the entrance (pictured at the beginning of this article). At the time of my trip, it was 250 pesos, and you will receive a numbered keychain to present each time you enter onwards.

Hotel, Hostel Costs: The hostel I stayed at was $18USD a night. They also offered private rooms of various sizes and the costs can be found on their websites. You can also rent houses there, and Airbnb has many available.

I am already planning on taking another trip to climb in Potrero, this time for a little longer too. I’d like to see about renting a house for up to a month, and having a crew of old and new friends join me. I can’t recommend the trip enough, for its ease of travel, affordability, quality of rock climbing, new friends made, and excellent welcoming local people! There was no part of my trip I would consider all that difficult or challenging to navigate. This is a world class climbing destination that still maintains a very approachable climbing scene.

The staff at Next Adventure will be stoked to help outfit you for your next climbing adventure. It’s what we live for! The various departments carry all the necessary equipment you will need, and even some luxuries. I brought along my Jetboil Flash Java, and some local Portland coffee, so I could enjoy the morning brew I’m accustomed to. I’m also a huge fan of always traveling with a camp towel.